
Registan
The great square of three madrasas
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Two days for Samarkand's great monuments, and a third for the countryside: Urgut's bazaar, the Chor-Chinor garden, the Amankutan gorge and the Takhtakaracha Pass.
Day one is all on foot; day two starts on foot and continues by taxi. Its last stops are on the city's eastern edge, where the Konigil paper mill and the Eternal City sit close together. In winter the mill usually closes at 17:00, so go before lunch at that time of year.
For day three, hire a car and driver for the day: Urgut is about an hour away, Urgut to Amankutan takes roughly another hour, and the drive back from the pass to Samarkand is a little over an hour — 150–170 km in all. Urgut's bazaar is busiest on Sundays and Saturdays, so plan around those days if you can. The mountains are cooler than the city, so pack a jacket, and expect patchy phone signal. If shrines appeal more, swap day three for a trip to the Imam al-Bukhari complex and the Makhdumi Azam mausoleum.
This itinerary suits travellers who want to see Samarkand unhurriedly and don't mind plenty of walking. Choose day three according to the weather: the mountains are loveliest in spring and autumn, and in summer they offer an escape from the city heat.
Walk the pedestrian street to Bibi-Khanym, browsing the souvenir shops.

The pedestrian street from the Registan to Bibi-Khanym
The grandest mosque of Timur's age — take in the sheer scale of its domes and portal.

Timur's colossal Friday mosque
Explore the bazaar and have lunch nearby — don't leave without trying Samarkand bread.

Samarkand's biggest and oldest market
Enjoy the view over the bazaar and Bibi-Khanym from the hilltop mosque.

A hilltop mosque at the old gate of Afrasiyab
Linger on the street of tombs — the afternoon light makes the tiles glow.

The avenue of mausoleums
After dinner, watch the Registan's light show (seasonal).

Three madrasas as a stage for light and music
Visit Timur's mausoleum in the morning — its gilded interior deserves your full attention.

Tomb of Timur and his dynasty
Pop into the 14th-century mausoleum next door to Gur-e-Amir.

The "abode of the spirit", a saint Timur revered
A 10–15-minute taxi ride. The 7th-century 'Ambassadors' mural is a rare masterpiece of Sogdian art.

Home of the Hall of Ambassadors
A peaceful riverside shrine. Dress modestly; women should bring a headscarf.

A shrine revered by three faiths
After lunch, visit Ulugh Beg's 15th-century observatory and its museum.

The greatest astronomical instrument of the Middle Ages
Fifteen minutes by taxi. Watch every stage of making paper from mulberry bark.

Samarkand paper, reborn
Spend the evening among craft workshops and Uzbek cooking.

All of Uzbekistan in one ethno-park
About 40 km from Samarkand, roughly an hour by car. The suzani and embroidery rows are at their best on Sundays.

A craft-filled weekend market
A few kilometres from the bazaar, rest in a garden shaded by centuries-old plane trees.

A shrine in the shade of ancient plane trees
Lunch beside the stream in a cool mountain gorge, then take a short walk.

A Stone Age cave in a wooded mountain valley
From this pass on the Zarafshan range you look out over the peaks and south towards the Kashkadarya valley. In winter the road can be closed by snow.

A mountain pass on a regional border
For example: Registan, Ulugh Beg, plov, Urgut