Grapes, melons and dried fruit

Grapes, melons, apricots and pomegranates from the sunny Zarafshan valley — fresh in summer, dried into raisins and apricots all year, and the brightest stalls in Samarkand’s bazaars.

Gifts of the Zarafshan valley

Samarkand sits in a fertile oasis watered by the Zarafshan river and has been famous for its orchards since antiquity. Even Tang-dynasty China knew it: in the 7th century the ruler of Samarkand sent the Tang court ‘golden peaches’ the size of goose eggs. The American sinologist Edward Schafer borrowed the image for the title of his classic study of Tang exotica, The Golden Peaches of Samarkand.

In summer and autumn the city’s markets still overflow with grapes, melons, watermelons, apricots, peaches, cherries, pomegranates and quinces. The vineyards and cherry orchards of Urgut and the melon fields of the surrounding districts keep the city supplied in season. Some of the grapes become wine; the museum at Samarkand’s Khovrenko winery tells the story of local winemaking.

The dried-fruit rows

Where the sun is this generous, fruit is dried for winter. The aisles of Siyob Bazaar — more than seven hectares of it, right beside the Bibi-Khanym Mosque — are lined with pyramids of raisins in black, gold and green, dried apricots, whole apricots dried with a kernel tucked inside, dried melon, almonds, walnuts and pistachios.

Tasting before buying is expected, and sellers will press a handful on you. Prices are usually open to discussion, so bargaining is both a custom and a way to strike up a conversation.