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The craftsmen's trail
The craftsmen's trail
1 day 6 stops

The craftsmen's trail

© Betta27, Public domain

From the suzani of Urgut's bazaar to Konigil paper, and from the Eternal City's workshops to the silk-carpet weavers — Samarkand's crafts in a single day.

Practical information

Start early in Urgut: the bazaar is about an hour's drive away and trading is liveliest in the morning. It's busiest on Sundays and Saturdays; on other days you could skip it, begin at Konigil and enjoy a slower morning. Urgut to Konigil takes 45–60 minutes, and Konigil and the Eternal City are close neighbours. From there it's a 15–20-minute taxi ride back into the old town for the carpet workshop.

Have lunch in the Eternal City. The Konigil mill usually opens 9:00–17:00 in winter and 8:00–19:00 in summer. Bring cash for purchases, as small workshops don't always take cards.

Shopping tips

Exporting antique carpets, suzani and other items of cultural value may require a special permit, so ask the seller for paperwork and a receipt. The price of a hand-knotted silk carpet depends on its knot density and size. When choosing a suzani, turn it over: hand embroidery has slightly irregular stitches, whereas machine work looks too uniform.

Stops

  1. 08:00

    Urgut Bazaar

    Urgut's suzani rows are among the best places in Uzbekistan to see old and new embroidery. Sundays are richest; bargain politely.

  2. 11:15

    Konigil Meros Paper Mill

    Mulberry-bark papermaking was revived here in the 1990s. Watch the pulp being boiled, formed into sheets and polished, then try making a sheet yourself.

  3. 13:00

    Eternal City (Boqiy Shahar)

    After lunch, explore more than 50 workshops — woodcarving, pottery, jewellery, carpet weaving. Book master classes in advance.

  4. 15:30

    Samarkand Bukhara Silk Carpets

    Follow the whole process, from dyeing silk thread with natural dyes to hand-knotting. The workshop usually closes around 18:00.

  5. 16:45

    Islam Karimov Street (formerly Tashkent Street)

    Compare skullcaps, ceramics, suzani and knives in the shops along the pedestrian street.

  6. 17:45

    Registan

    Miniature painters, embroiderers and potters work in the madrasas' former student cells — browse their studios in the evening light.

    Registan

    The great square of three madrasas