Yelkan
Round-the-clock highway café on the Tashkent–Samarkand road
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Land of epic bards and Timur's own Shiraz
A district 28 km northeast of Samarkand with Timur's Sheroz fortress, the legacy of the bard Fozil Yuldosh-ogli, Zarafshan riverside forest, vineyards and potato fields.
Bulungur District spreads northeast of Samarkand, where the Zarafshan valley narrows and slips into the mountains. It occupies an intermontane basin at the southwestern foot of the Turkestan Range: irrigated plain to the west and south, the Gobdin hills and rolling foothills to the east. Jizzakh Region lies to the north and Tajikistan to the southeast. The climate is continental, with January averaging around 0 °C and July 25–26 °C; at 380–470 mm a year, rainfall is nearly double that of the region's western districts.
Life follows the canals drawn from the Zarafshan, among them the Bulungur canal that gave the district its name and the Tuyatortar, which has long carried water toward the Jizzakh steppe. On the river's right bank lies the Zarafshan National Nature Park, created in 2018 from a reserve founded in 1975 to protect a rare surviving stretch of foothill tugai, the dense riverside woodland of Central Asia.
The district was created on 29 September 1926. Its centre grew up around a railway station in the late 19th century; known in Soviet times as Krasnogvardeysk, the town took the name Bulungur in 1992. The story here runs much deeper, though. According to Ibn Arabshah and Ulugh Beg's History of the Four Uluses, Timur ringed Samarkand with villages named after the world's great capitals, one of them Shiraz. The Sheroz fortress near the village of Bolgali is dated to 1397–1398, and excavations in 2015–2019 turned up Timurid artefacts and gold and copper coins. In 1451 a battle nearby saw Abu Sa'id defeat Abdallah Mirza and seize the throne of Samarkand.
Bulungur is also a heartland of Uzbek oral epic. Fozil Yuldosh-ogli (1872–1955), the greatest and last master of the Bulungur school of bards, knew more than 40 dastans by heart, and his version of Alpamysh is regarded as the most complete ever recorded. In 1926–1928, in the village of Qirqshodi, he and fellow bards Ergash Jumanbulbul-ogli and Polkan dictated their poems to folklorists. He is buried in Bulungur, which has a museum in his name, and since 1986 the Chavqi folk ensemble has kept the district's old games and songs alive on stage.
This is grape and potato country. Official figures put potatoes at around 8,000 ha, grown from elite Dutch seed, and there are plans to expand the raisin and wine vineyards; local plants process, dry and flash-freeze the produce. At Gobdin a new Bulungur reservoir is under construction next to an industrial site, 100 ha of which were folded into the Urgut free economic zone by a presidential decree in late 2025. The M-39 highway and the Samarkand–Jizzakh railway cross the district.
Bulungur is about 28–30 km from Samarkand, a 30–40 minute drive or taxi ride along the M-39 towards Jizzakh and Tashkent. Buses and shared minibuses run from Samarkand, and the town has a railway station. The Sheroz fortress lies in Bolgali village, a few kilometres from the centre.
Restaurants
Round-the-clock highway café on the Tashkent–Samarkand road
For example: Registan, Ulugh Beg, plov, Urgut